20 Days in Bali

We enjoyed our pre-arranged airport pick-up in Chennai so much that we decided to arrange the same in Bali. There are no worries, no stress and it costs about the same as a cab ride. And there’s that warm and fuzzy feeling you get when you see the driver holding a sign with your name on as you exit the airport.

Ubud is a small town about an hour north of the airport that’s known as the cultural capital of Bali. We’ve been to Ubud before and we liked it, so we decided to book the Honeymoon Cottages in central Ubud as our first stop. At first, we thought we’d rent a house here and settle down for a month or so. Ubud has lots of great restaurants and tons of culture, so we could easily spend some time here. But the owner of our Auroville guest house had highly recommended the Taman Sari resort up north, so we decided to check it out.

Taman Sari is located on a remote stretch of black volcanic sand beach in the little village of Pemuteran. There’s not much to do here, so we weren’t planning to stay too long. But a series of mishaps with broken air conditioners got us an upgrade from a cottage to a villa and that changed everything. Taman Sari’s villas are private units that come in clusters of three surrounding a private pool. Our unit was in the resort owner’s complex and had a salt water pool. A day after we moved in, the owner left on an extended trip and we had the entire complex to ourselves so we took advantage of the situation and always swam in the nude. Yes, there was a beach just a few hundred feet away, but why would one bother? No, the irony of flying halfway around the world to stay at a beach resort only to lounge by the pool was not lost on us.

Pemuteran’s beach has several resorts, each with its own restaurant. The main road also has several good local warungs with slightly cheaper menus (tip: it is assumed that foreigners don't like spicy dishes, so be sure to ask for "fresh sambal" or your food will taste very bland). Just a short boat ride away is Menjangan Island where the snorkeling is amazing. The coral reefs are stunningly beautiful and the fish are abundant. In fact, the snorkeling here is so good we went back for more two more times. All this combined with the comfort of our private villa forced us to extend our stay.

The entire island of Bali is a huge tourist destination with major developments still under way. The fact that Eat Pray Love (the best-selling book and movie) was set here is making Bali ever more popular. What’s different about Bali than any other tourist destination we’ve been to is the character of the people here. Balinese people are very gentle and seem happy and content by nature. Their culture is rich with art, music, dance and ritual. By Western standards, they may not have a lot of materials goods, but they seem to have a rich spiritual life. And they like to treat visitors like us as if we’re friends and family. For example, when a local boy approaches you to chat, he doesn't really want anything from you except a chance to practice his English. That’s what makes Bali special.

(See more pictures of Bali)

3 Nights in Singapore

Since Singapore is right in between India and Bali, we had to make a stop there if only to eat. We’ve heard stories about Singapore’s obsession with food so we had see for ourselves what the fuss was all about. We’ve been eating very clean and healthy in Auroville for almost 3 weeks, so now we’re craving some greasy and junky street food.

We’ve read about Singapore’s hawker food centers, so as soon as we checked into our hotel, we headed straight for Lavender Food Square, which just happens to be one block away. This open-air food court was surrounded by about 40 food vendors selling everything from frog porridge to turtle soup. There was Indian, Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese, Thai and even Nepalese stands. No fusion crap here, this is pure authentic pan-Asian cuisine in its unadulterated form. This is food heaven.

Interestingly enough, there was very little direct competition between the vendors as each hawker had a specialty and no 2 food stalls sold the same dish. For the diner, the selection was overwhelming – it’s like putting together a meal by choosing the best dishes from 40 different restaurants. And since each restaurant has only one specialty, they must be really good at making it, right?

Years ago, these food vendors would have been pushing carts out on the street with no access to electricity and clean water. Today, they are licensed and don’t even have to do their own dishes as the food court employs a staff to bus the tables and keep things clean. Everything we ordered was delicious and affordable – a truly civilized way to enjoy tasty “street food” without any worries. We decided that this was the way to eat out and during our time in Singapore and we ended up not eating at a single “traditional” restaurant.

Hawker centers come in all shapes and sizes. Besides our neighborhood “Food Square,” we also ate at the famous Maxwell Food Centre (recommended by Anthony Bourdain) and several air-conditioned food courts inside shopping malls with names like Food Republic, Food Village and Food Opera (what ever happened to “Food Orgy”?). Each location had its own atmosphere and some unique dishes to offer. But we decided that most delicious and the most authentic place to eat was our first stop – the Lavender Food Square.

Singapore reminds me a lot of Chicago. It’s not too crowded, there’s an efficient mass transit system and a river runs right through the heart of the city. There’s even a giant Ferris wheel right on the waterfront. But the most distinguishing feature about Singapore is that it’s clean -- very clean. Even the tap water is drinkable (and it tastes pretty good, too).

Singapore is not a cheap city and we totally blew our budget here. Our hotel was over $100 a night and even though we ate at relatively cheap hawker centers, we paid Champaign-Urbana restaurant prices. As it turned out, 3 nights was just about the right amount of time to spend in Singapore. The experience was definitely worth it and with our bellies full, we’re off to Bali.

(See more pictures of Singapore)

India Epilogue

India is a huge country and in the month that we were here, we barely scratched the surface. We discovered that we didn’t like the noisy and crowded big cities, so we spent most of our time in more manageable smaller towns. We spent some time in the north as well as the south. We heard many tongues being spoken – Hindi, Bengali, Tamil, Nepalese – but fortunately almost everyone we came in contact with understood some English. We saw the wealthy, educated and Westernized India as well as the poorest shanty towns. And despite all the stories we’ve heard, we never got the dreaded "Delhi Belly" even once. But before we take off for Singapore, here are a few random thoughts about India.

The first thing we had to get used to in India was the “head bobble.” Often, when we asked a question we would get a response in the form of a head shake that kind of looked like a “no.” Soon we realized that what we thought was a typical USA head shake was really a “head bobble.” And the meaning behind the head bobble was not “no,” but rather “yes” (or “ok” or “no problem”). Be warned, the head bobble is rather contagious. By the time we left India, we were doing it as well.

A little harder to get used to is Indian street etiquette. On the first day in India, we saw some expert spitting and pissing on Kolkata’s streets. It seems Indian men have had a lot of practice spitting. The spit always seems to come out of the spitter’s mouth with great force and in almost a straight line. This also allows the spitter to aim the spit with great accuracy. Almost as admirable was an act of tissue-less nose blowing that was done with almost the same level of expertise. I’m pretty sure not a drop landed on the nose-blower’s clothes. Not surprisingly, men in India like to piss outside just like in the USA, and they’re not shy about it either. But how to do the same in the crowded streets of a big city without exposing oneself? Well, there’s the squat technique. Apparently, if you squat facing a wall, you can pull it out at just the right angle so that passersby can’t see anything and you can happily piss away even as people are walking by. Fortunately, India also has a tradition of removing shoes before entering a house. And I’m just guessing, but women must not drink as much water or they just know how to hold it in because we didn’t see a single woman peeing in the streets.

India is a very crowded country, so standing in queue is a fact of life. But I didn’t realize that one must also protect one’s place in queue with great resolve. Indians are very skilled in the art of queue cutting. It’s done almost like a magic trick. In a blink of an eye, someone could slip right in front of you leaving you to wonder how it happened. The several times I left myself open to this sleight of hand, I noticed that the act is performed like a well-rehearsed dance routine. No eye contact is made, and there’s an air of innocence around the performance as if the choreographed body language was saying, “Gosh, I didn’t know you were standing in line. Why I would never cut in front of you if I knew. No way. But thanks for letting me in anyway.”

In the USA, we’re used to having electricity 24/7. Not so in India. Daily power outages are common in India, especially in the afternoon. This fact of life is so routine that almost all hotels have battery-operated UPS backup systems. In fact, the electrical wiring has been designed with this in mind as at least one circuit is hooked up to the UPS system so that some electricity is available for guests at all times. As for stores, all their computers are also on the UPS system so that shoppers can continue to check out even if the power goes out. Very smart, indeed.

Bollywood movies are often over 3-hours long, so having an intermission makes sense. However, when shorter Hollywood movies or other imports are shown in Indian cinemas, there’s also an intermission regardless of the length of the film. Of course we were caught by surprise when we went to the local cineplex and the lights went on in the middle of the movie -- during a critical scene no less. I suppose for practical purposes, this convention makes sense as moviegoers will have an opportunity to get refills on popcorn and allow the theatre concession stand to make some money. Apparently there’s some controversy around this issue as Indian audiences like their intermissions and are fighting to keep them. While we were in India, history was being made as the new film Dhobi Ghat was being released “without interval” and it was big news.

Being in India is a life-altering experience. Without a doubt, our eyes were opened wide and it's going to take while to integrate this experience.

Auroville Today

The Auroville Master Plan

We’ve been in Auroville for over 2 weeks now and we’re starting to feel really comfortable here. This community has the vibe of a 1960s hippie commune doused with a heavy dose of European sophistication. Even though this is still India and there are social constraints, one feels relatively free to do as one pleases inside Auroville. Sustainable ecological living is the norm here (no plastic bags or bottles!) and since the town is a laboratory, the architecture is pretty radical and visionary. Although we’re only “guests,” we’re starting to fantasize about the possibility of becoming residents some day.

Auroville is definitely a work-in-progress. Almost all the roads are still dusty dirt roads because the permanent roads in the master plan have not been built yet. Since all the ”settlements” are spread out over a fairly large area, almost everyone travels by petrol-fueled motorbikes (although we did see a few electric bikes). Auroville’s ultimate goal is to be a living embodiment of human unity, yet there is still a cultural gulf between the Europeans and the Tamil locals. Despite efforts to include the locals within Auroville culture, it’s clear that Europeans are in charge and most (but not all) of the Tamil people end up working as maids, dishwashers, sweepers, taxi drivers, etc. Although the locals have benefitted greatly from Auroville’s economy and education initiatives, sometimes this town still feels like a neo-French colony. Auroville is aware of these and other problems which are all mentioned in their promotional literature. Acknowledgement of these problems also means they're trying to find solutions. It's a refreshingly honest approach to self-promotion that rarely happens in capitalist for-profit corporate propaganda.

Auroville does a really good job welcoming guests. There are plenty of restaurants here serving a great variety of cuisines, although authentic Indian food is still hard to find (everything has been “mildly spiced” for sensitive European palettes). The French influence is definitely felt here as you can easily find quiche, crepes, galettes and croissants without trying. There is a great emphasis on healthy eating, so almost all the produce is organic and there are salads on almost every menu. Even the drinking water here is Dymamized and it tastes great. A nutritious healthy and satisfying lunch can be had for as little as $2. While we were here, a new raw food restaurant just opened. But you won’t find beer or wine on any menu because alcohol is discouraged (but non-alcoholic beer is available).

For a community of just over 2000 residents, there is an overabundance of culture available in Auroville. There’s almost always something to go to every night (on some nights there are schedule conflicts for competing events) and during the day, one can choose from a variety of classes and seminars to attend. While I was here, I attended several dance performances, and saw some great documentaries and foreign films. On our last weekend here, there was a contemporary Indian film festival (projected in 35mm no less). Best of all, all the events are free (but the classes do charge a small fee).

There are plenty of guesthouses for visitors available in all price ranges (we paid $44 per night for our room which is on the higher end of the scale). But to feel comfortable here, you’ll have to temporarily set aside your sarcastic side. Auroville settlements have names like Aspiration, Acceptance, Surrender, Hope, Transformation, etc. – and there’s not an ounce of irony in any of the names. Auroville might be harder to accept for those who have a phobia of cults or a strong allergic reaction to New Age spiritual clichés as you’ll find devotional photos of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother almost everywhere.

Ultimately what moved me most about Auroville is the fact that the residents here are not just talking about a better world, they’re actually building it. And they’re doing it with the purest of intention, without any commercial motivation or personal profit in mind. No matter what anyone says, the world needs Auroville now more than ever.

(See more pictures of Auroville)

Happy Birthday Auroville

Today is Auroville’s 43rd birthday. At 5:30am, we went to Auroville’s birthday celebration bonfire at the outdoor amphitheatre next to the Mantrimandir. At the center of the amphitheatre is an urn that contains handfuls of soil from every state of India and almost every country in the world. The soil samples were placed in the urn at Auroville’s inauguration ceremony on February 28, 1968. Every year, hundreds of people attend the birthday celebration bonfire to honor the Mother’s dream and to contemplate the symbolic urn.

I’ve never attended a birthday “party” quite like this one. Silence is expected as everyone is invited to sit quietly around the bonfire to contemplate the moment. The energy of hundreds of other people present can definitely be felt. Personally, I also felt very connected to Auroville’s past as well as the future of this very special place. As the sun rose, one could start to make out the faces of all the other people present. Although no words were spoken, it was clear that everyone in attendance today was very unified in spirit. I think all of us were reminded of the purpose of Auroville’s existence – to help achieve human unity across all cultures, religions and social status.

Auroville’s history was quite tumultuous. The original vision for Auroville was the Mother’s dream. When she was still alive, she wrote the original charter, collaborated with architects and city planners and even chose the specific location that was to become the center of Auroville. After she died in 1973, political infighting and power struggles divided the devotees working on this monumental project. However, the Mother’s original charter stood the test of Indian courts and Auroville became an independent entity no longer controlled by the Pondicherry ashram where the Mother once resided.

The stories of the original pioneers who built Auroville from literally nothing are recorded in a wonderful book called Turning Points. Their candid personal stories are crazier than fiction, extremely moving and told with great wit. The stories expand upon Aurovilee’s many accomplishments since its inauguration 43 years ago: Over 2 million trees and shrubs planted, major infrastructure constructed (roads, water, telephone, waste collection, etc.), education and empowering programs for local villages initiated, ongoing alternative energy experiments conducted, award-winning buildings designed and built, and much much more. Today, we’re all benefactors of the energy, dedication and perseverance of these crazy pioneers who believed a better world was possible and then actually did something about it. And it was all done without any commercial motives or corporate sponsorship.

It feels to me that Auroville’s momentum which has been building for decades now is just about ready to explode. Who knows what these people will accomplish in the next 10 years. I guess I’ll just have to come back to see for myself.

P.S. It just so happens that today is my birthday, too. Coincidence or serendipity?

(See more pictures of Auroville)

The Mantrimandir

So far, our stay in Auroville has been amazing. There are many highlights, but perhaps the most important one is entering the inner chamber of the Mantrimandir for the first time. The Mantrimandir (literally “mother’s house”) is a giant 118-foot-wide glistening golden sphere-like object that’s also the soul of Auroville. Conceived in 1971 and designed by architect Roger Anger, the Mantrimandir was not finished until 2008. Today, it is a huge tourist attraction that almost belies its true purpose – to serve as a point of concentration to help people focus inwards. Getting to the inside the Mantrimandir is a 3-day process, but once you’ve made it inside, you’re welcome to come back for repeat visits as often as you like (by reservation, of course).

Architecturally, the Mantrimandir is an awe-inspiring object. The golden discs are made up of over 2 million gold-plated mosaic leaves that were positioned by hand (that’s real gold, mind you). As one walks up to the structure, one can’t help but feel its immense power. You enter the Mantrimandir by walking up one of the four staircases. As I entered the Mantrimandir, I couldn’t help fantasizing that I was entering a spaceship ready for take-off. Once inside, the architect’s vision takes over and you are compressed into a small space before walking up spiral staircases that suddenly opens up to an enormous spacious chamber. A much longer spiral walkway takes you up to the entrance of the inner meditation chamber (Aurovilians prefer to say "concentration" instead of "meditation"). The walk up the ramp was surreal and extremely emotional for me as the simple beauty of the design – the perfect arcs and spirals, the mathematical proportions, the purity of the geometry, all worked together to enhance an already intense experience. Once again, images from science fiction films like Metropolis and 2001 were evoked.

Once you enter the inner chamber, visitors are invited to sit around a circle facing a giant crystal ball lit by a single beam of sunlight coming from the top of the sphere. There are 12 columns surround the crystal, almost cradling it. This is the purest sacred space I’ve ever seen. No church, ashram, temple or mosque has ever evoked such strong feelings in me. So either there’s something profound going on here or this is the finest testament to the power of architectural design.

At first I was peeved that there was no photography allowed inside the Mantrimandir. In hindsight, it makes perfect sense. No photograph can do justice to the intense feeling of walking through that sacred space. Besides, the act of taking photographs will undoubtedly take you out of being in the moment which defeats the purpose of entering the Montrimandir in the first place.

The design of the Mantrimandir and the concept of Auroville will undoubtedly evoke comparisons to Disney’s original vision for Epcot Center. The comparisons are fair as both were conceived in the idealistic 1960s although the Aurovilians claim that their Mantrimandir design was first. If critics want to call Auroville a theme park for new age spiritualism, then it’s only fair to label Epcot Center as an ashram for American capitalism and global corporate branding.

Another interesting association for me is the film 2001: A Space Odyssey. When I first saw the film as a teenager, I did not understand it at all. It was only upon repeat viewings that Stanley Kubrick’s message became clear. In my opinion, the next step in human evolution as depicted in 2001 is not that far off from The Mother’s vision of awakening human consciousness and transformation. Not surprisingly, 2001 was released in 1968, the same year Auroville was inaugurated. Coincidence or serendipity?

(See more pictures of Auroville)

Arriving at Auroville

Afsanah Guest House

After landing in Chennai, we were picked up by a taxi for the 2.5 hour drive south to Auroville. Once again, we arrived after dark, so there was a surprise waiting for us when we woke up the next morning -- we opened our eyes and thought we were in Japan. As it turned out, our guesthouse was designed by a German architect in the sparse Japanese sukiya-style complete with lily ponds and a Zen garden. Are we still in India?

Our beautiful Afsanah Guesthouse was not the only surprise waiting for us. We had very little time to research Auroville, so we arrived with just a superficial understanding of the town. But even if we had read about Auroville extensively, nothing could have prepared us for actually being here.

Auroville is an experimental utopian community that was inaugurated in 1968 by devotees to Sri Aurobindo and his soul mate “The Mother.” Through meticulous planning and dedicated manual labor, these visionary people took 3000 acres of arid desert and transformed it into a green utopia in just a few decades. Real infrastructure development started in the 1990s and the momentum has been building since. Today, there are over 2000 “Aurovillians” living and working here in this vibrant community. Although over 45 different nationalities are represented in Auroville, the residents are mostly Indian nationals, French and German.

Where most 1960s idealistic communal living experiments have failed, Auroville has not only survived but prospered. Their goals are lofty – universal human unity, transformation of consciousness and research into “sustainable living and the future cultural, environmental, social and spiritual needs of mankind.” Their methods are radical and revolutionary -- decision-making by consensus, no hierarchical government, no exchange of money, communal ownership of property, and much more. The results are amazing. Although not all of these goals have been met, there has been great progress and tons of support from governments as well as individuals.

We’re not unfamiliar with Hindu Vedic traditions, gurus and ashrams, so it came as no surprise that being here felt like being inside a very powerful spiritual vortex. For Aurobindo devotees, Auroville is a pilgrimage site as powerful as Kaaba is for people of Islamic faith. The fact that Auroville can exist in today’s world is nothing short of a miracle and the sincere idealism of Aurovillians stirred up strong emotions in me that brought tears to my eyes. I’m typically quite skeptical of anything that’s too good to be true, but being in Auroville makes me want to sell everything I own and join this amazing community. We have no plans to leave, so let’s see what the next few days will bring.

(See more pictures of Auroville)