Koh Tao

Hua Hin is a resort town for Thais. But Koh Tao is a resort island strictly for foreigners. Both destinations offer an incredible range of services, from restaurants to hotels to shopping. But the difference between Hua Hin and Koh Tao is a visible racial divide. In Hua Hin, foreigners mixed with the Thais on the streets. But in Koh Tao, almost all the tourists are European, Australian or American (there’s a smattering of Japanese here as well, but they seem to only like to hang out at the Nangyuan Island Resort). So what you see as you walk around is a clear division of races – all the people being served are white and all the people doing the serving are brown. This divide is also felt in the interactions between the races. Sure, all the Thais are very friendly, but in Hua Hin the smiles seem more genuine. In Koh Tao, it’s abundantly clear that they’re only interested in your money. That said, it’s still amazingly cheap here even with Koh Tao’s inflated prices. Typical entrees are $2 to $3 at authentic road-side Thai eateries. An amazing variety of fresh seafood barbecue can be had for about $10. Our roomy air conditioned bungalow by the beach was $40/night but smaller ones can be had for $20 without “aircon.”

In Koh Tao, we decided to stay at a beach community called Sairee Beach mainly because of the abundant variety of accommodation choices available. As is our habit, we booked one night at a random hotel on the Internet, then walked around town to see what else might be available. Pictures on a web site don’t always tell the full story and there’s nothing like asking to see a room before you take it. So after shopping around and looking at several places, we discovered the AC Two Resort (not listed in the guide books and not on the Internet). It was a perfect location at a great price -- right on the beach “boardwalk” and within easy walking distance were dozens of eateries, massage parlors, travel agents, etc. But the hidden gem on the island was a lady-boy bar called the Queen’s Cabaret with a nightly show of enthusiastic drag queens who lip-synch their hearts out with elaborate costume changes between sets.

After 6 nights in Koh Tao, we decided to move on. Next stop, the island of Ko Phangan.

(See more pictures of Thailand)